Tasmania 2002/2003

Day 1 - Fri 27th

Drove to Dubbo picked up Julie. Drove to Melbourne to Clare's place.

Day 2 - Sat 28th

When and checked out Chapel St. Bought some camping gear. Were going to go to the pub but too tired from shopping :)

Day 3 - Sun 29th

Chadstone for more shopping! We each bought some cool daypacks. I got a neato one that holds my camera gear. Went to Julie's sisters Kaylene's place. Went for a walk down the creek behind there place and saw some wombats.

Day 4 - Mon 30th

Jumped on the boat in the morning and cruised over during the day. Was a bit more interesting than cruising over asleep during the night but it does waste a whole day. Not wanting to get sea sick I took some pills and promptly fell asleep anyway.

Got of at dusk and then drove down to Bicheno to Bruce and Gabriella's place. Bruce's brother Warren was also visiting.

Day 5 - Tue 31st

We all jumped in and drove to South Bruny Island. The second car got lost or something and so we ended up waiting around on the other side of the ferry crossing for them. While we were waiting I saw my first Teddy Bear Bee who proved very difficult to photograph. Fortunately we saw more of them on the trip and I finally got a decent shot at port Arthur.

Anyway we did a quick trip down to the south tip of the island and camped at Jetty Beach which was very nice. That night (being new years eve) we decided to stay up until midnight on Lighthouse beach on Cape Bruny that was just around the corner. We were very well rewarded with a cool light display from phosphorescent stuff in the water that lights up when disturbed. So as each wave rolled in the crest would light up. Magic stuff. Well worth the night up and probably the most original light show I have seen on a new years night.

Day 6 - Wed 1st

Well up bright and early to watch the sun rise over Jetty Beach which was very pretty no that we could really see it. Then we drove around to the lighthouse again and went for a walk around the top of the dolerite sea cliffs there. We also encountered a furry echidna. These little guys are so cute and only found in Tasmania. They have sparse bristles almost like they have been half plucked but are also covered in soft fur beneath the bristles. They are also much less shy and we spend a bit of time rolling around on the ground watching this cute little guy.

Then onward ho to a nice little beach on cloudy bay for lunch. Say some interesting red water which was coloured by algae. Then onto Adventure Bay to do the Fluted Cape walk which was some very impressive stone cliffs with lots of lonely rock spires which look like a lot of fun to climb (I have to build up to the Totem Pole which is very nearby and the same rock). There were also some different types of gum trees like peppermint gums which I have never appreciated before.

Then more driving back across the ferry to Hobart to stay with Bruce's aunt and uncle at Glenorchy. We went out to tea at a Chinese place which was amusing because I don't think they had ever served vegetarians let alone vegans before. After a bit of discussion we finally ate something and then saw Lord of the Rings.

Photos

Day 7 - Thu 2nd

Drove up to Triabunna and caught the ferry across to Maria Island. This place was farmed a little too much a while ago but still has a lot of very nice bush and feature left. We first went on a walk around to the Fossil Cliffs. The fossils weren't too interesting but below them were larger rock pools filled with very interesting stuff including a variety of blue 8 legged star fish.

Then another walk to the south of the island to the painted cliffs which are sandstone cliffs eroded by the wind and surf into cool shapes exposing the even weirder sandstone colouring. Also lot of life in the rock pools including Waratah Anemones, Lions Mane jelly fish, this cool goop called proliferous ?, Sea lettuce. On the way back we also encountered Cape Bennet geese, a few pademelons and some other birds which I think were Tasmanian Hens.

Day 8 - Fri 3rd

The first day which involved a big hill! We walked up Bishop and Clerk which gave us a very nice vew back over the island. While up there I went for a little solo climb down a cliff to rescue a hat that someone had previously dropped over for Julie's burnt little head after she lost her own hat over the Fossil cliffs.

Then back down, across the ferry and then south to the Tasman Peninsula. A very short stop at the tessellated pavement as it was getting dark and then we snuck into the camp ground after dark.

Day 9 - Sat 4th

Checked out the Port Arthur Historic site and jumped straight onto a boat for a tour of the harbour. Lots of funky old buildings with a lot of interesting history. I finally caught up again with those fascinating Teddy Bear Bee's. Those things were driving me mad as they would hovering perfectly until I pulled out the camera and then I would chased them around for ages until I gave up. But after a few of these attempts I finally made friends with two of them who weren't so camera shy and I could get within inches of them.

Day 10 - Sun 5th

Visited the Devil's Kitchen and Arch which are huge eroded holes in the side of the sea cliffs. I was probably being a bad influence by jumping too many railings as a bunch of Yellow hatted asian tourists were starting to follow and I was getting concerned. Then onto the blow hole which was more of the same cool erosion through the sea cliffs. We drove through a town were every house is called something ending with 'Doo'. Some pretty funny stuff there.

A quick stop at the Eagle-Hawk Neck dog line which was to stop convicts from escaping to the mainland.

Then we went back north and did a little back tracking to Kelvedon Beach on the way to Freycinet. This was one of those perfect little beaches with perfect blue water. It had a little run down shack at one end to add to the effect.

Next stop just up the road at Spiky bridge which I think is the oldest bridge in Australia. Built by convicts as you would expect. Very cool. We also check out spiky beach next door for lunch and clambered around on the cool lichen covered rocks. More perfect sand and water.

Then back in the car to drive up and around the day to Freycinet NP and camped on Richardson's Beach.

Photos

Day 11 - Mon 6th

We got a early start and walked over the Hazards to Wineglass Bay. Apparently this beach was voted the best beach in Australia once. Very nice. Then we crossed west to the Hazards Beach were we stumbled across a guy a know from Armidale Arrin Daley. We had lunch, some of us went for a swim and somehow my prized wooden spoon got misplaced forever. Then back north around the hazards and then we drove back to Bruce and Gabs place for a lazy night.

Day 12 - Tue 7th

Drove to Walls of Jerusalem NP and nearly got wiped out by a big scary logging truck. It is such a pity that there is still logging going on here. This palce is beautiful an I couldn't get enough of it. I haven't really spent any time in an alpine environment and the plants and atmosphere are so different and alien. I love it. We walked in and camped just before Herod's Gate. A second taste of a bit of steep walking but this time with packs on. Just a warm up for Cradle Mountain though.

Day 13 - Wed 8th

Up early and through Herod's Gate, past Bethesda's pool. Through Damascus gate, up Solomon's throne. On the top here the view was great. Except that we could see a nasty storm brewing and coming in fast. So down we went and donned the wet weather gear. We walked to Dixon's kingdom hut and then started up Mt Jerusalem. Then it started snowing on us which was just magic.

Then after descending the mountain we sat in Dixon's kindom hut and boiled water for an hour and ate lollies.

Then we went bush to join up with Lake Ball and after various discussions about geographic embarrassment we made it.

Then a pleasant walk along the less well trod track to Lake Adelaide where we camped for the night.

Day 14 - Thu 9th

Got up early again and walked out.

Drove to Mole Creek for some supplies (ie lollies and a new wooded spoon).

Then onto Cradle Mountain where there was no room for scum like us. So we kept on moving up to Waratah. I am glad we came here I thoroughly recommend this place. Gorgeous little town with a waterfalls and water wheel in the middle of it. The camp ground was incredible cheap with free washing machines. And there was a pub just up the road.

We liked it so much we spent two nights here. It is so nice to lie in the sun and read. Also Julie had a COLD beer. All previous beers had been room temp. Don't ask me. A taste of civilisation was appreciated by all.

Day 15 - Fri 10th

Drove to Burnie and visited the Lactos Cheese factory. Bought some cheese and then went to the beach with some red wine to mellow out a bit more. Then I discovered a tick attached to my back. Apparently I was squealing a bit and had to be sedated.

Day 16 - Sat 11th

Well we were getting restless again so we drove back to Cradle Mountain. Had some food next to Dove Lake then set off. Climbed Hansen's Peak, past the twisted lakes to the Scott-Kilvert Hut where we stayed the night.

Now when we approached huts at the Wall of Jerusalem, one we couldn't find, one was two walls and a few bits of charcoal and one you weren't allowed to sleep in. The Scott-Kilvert hut to us was luxury. I had a toilet nearby, it was two story and had benches and a wood stove if it got really cold. It sleeps about 30 people. We thought this was amazing. But then talking to the other people who had just come in from the overland track this hut was apparently a dump compared to some of the others. It sort of takes the fun out of the whole experience.

Met up with a few other people at the hut. Went for a walk with Richard along the lake (knee deep in leaches) and played some 500 with Michael. Also at one point this Japanese guy stumbles in and speaking very little English informs us that he is lost as has no gear. He is in t-shirt and shorts with no food or water. It was pretty luck for Akira that Jules speaks Japanese and we sorted him out with some food and bedding for the night.

Day 17 - Sun 12th

Yet another early start and we backtracked a little to the emergency hut and then west up the face track to the Kitchen hut. Then we dumped out bags and ran up the mountain. Cradle mountain was spectacular as usual with little bits of snow in some shadows. Because we had heard various stories of clever animals and Julies zip kept coming undone she had locked her pack. Then just as we got to the top of the mountain she released that she no longer had her keys. Bummer. That includes the car keys. The only set. And we had one more night planned here before we had to be on the boat back to Melbourne.

So a little depressed we cooked some lunch which tasted absolutely terrible - we later realised that there must have been some metho leaking somewhere. Then surprise surprise Jules found her keys inside her pack and so with much rejoicing we set out again.

We followed the start of the overland track up to the Waterfall hut. As expected this was a pretty full on complex. It consisted of a couple buildings were you could sleep if you got a bed set aside early. Toilet blocks. A helicopter pad. It had a volunteer ranger stationed there. And there was also a tent city outside. We decided to tent it and staked out our little area and set up.

But as it turned out this night we should have stayed in the huts. The wind howled all night turning the tent inside out and slapping you just when you would finally get to sleep.

Day 18 - Mon 13th

After a less than perfect last night in Tasmania, we had a less than perfect day trudging back to Dove Lake in freezing wind. All the normal exuberance drained away and all the sore spots decided now was a good time to speak up.

Eventually we got back to the car, dumped the gear and drove off to Devonport to jump on the boat home.

Hot showers, a bed and a nice drug induced sleep were just what we needed.

 © 2000 Brendan Heywood

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